Hopefully you will have benefitted from the use of our
products and will also benefit from discussions
regarding their use. Please feel free to contact me if
you have any specific problems or questions.
You can
e-mail your questions to Quest by clicking the 'Email Quest' button
below.
This page was updated on
January 23, 2006
January, 2006
Question: My job is to shoot used cars for a large dealership. These cars
are photographed indoors with tungsten lights but the interiors are done
with my Olympus FL-36 flash with the E-300
digital Olympus camera.
My problem is I don't like the harsh light given off by the flash.
Since I'm in a car that has very little head room, my dash shot is
done from the back seat, what do you recommend I use?
My shots are
dash, front seats, rear seats, trunk and engine compartment. You can
see my photo's at www.autolenders.com.
Look at the Voorhees inventory. There won't be very many photo's that were done
in the studio because we just started. The photo's used to be done outside.
Answer:
Photographing interiors of "real" cars is challenging. I'd suggest
bouncing to help soften shadows and highlights on those may reflection surfaces. You
might try our UltraBounce and/or Big
Bounce...maybe even bouncing that light
off a piece of foam core.
Question: I just bought the UltraSoft today. When using it without pulling out the
white diffuser to cover the front, should it work about the same as the Pocket
Bouncer? I need to know because I don't want to switch between the UltraSoft
and Pocket Bouncer during photo shooting.
Answer:
Due to the folds in the UltraSoft diffuser, light is reflected into a variety
of directions resulting in additional light loss relative to the Pocket
Bouncer.
Question: I am using a Canon 5D with a 580EX
Speedlite flash mounted
on the hot shoe. I am looking for a product solution(s) to photograph people
from around 4'-10' in a large room with a high ceiling. What would
you recommend? What
about for a group shot from 20' in the same setting? In small rooms with
a white ceiling, I have been using a Sto-fen Omnibounce with good success.
If you think you have a better product, please let me know.
Answer:
I'd suggest either our Pocket Bouncer or SoftBox for your 4'-10' application
(but certainly not more than 10'). In small rooms, the Omnibounce and our
UltraBounce work well but remember that both are light distribution devices not
softboxes since they are not materially larger than the flash itself. They
rely
completely on walls and ceilings to bounce the light back into the scene being
photographed.
All in all, I'd recommend a copy of our new book, FLASH...The
MOST Available Light, to help with your various situations.
Question: How does the Soft Screen attach to the Canon camera? Will it improve
my flash shots with the built in flash?
Answer:
It attaches to your accessory shoe and then around the "Canon" nameplate
on the front of the camera.
Yes, it reduces hot spots and more evenly distributes the light from your pop-up
flash.
Question: Does your FX filter system convert the flash to tungsten light?
Answer:
The gels provided with the FX are theatrical. However,
you could use with any other filter including an 85 which converts day light
to tungsten.
Question: I have just purchased the LumiQuest Soft Screen. The results I have witnessed
with my Sony H1 are definitely worth it. Does it matter how close or far the
diffusion screen is to the flash? Meaning, is it better to have the screen as
far as possible to the flash? I currently have the screen positioned about 1/2
inch from the flash and was wondering if it's too close.
Answer:
We're glad you are enjoying your Soft Screen! The Soft
Screen works largely by
enlarging the light source by refracting the light through the diffusion material. If
it is too close to the flash, it is not as effective. I'd recommend at
least 1" away if that is
possible with your Sony camera.
Good shooting,
Quest C. Couch, III
PS. Our
contains questions and
answers since September, 1997.